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In The Footsteps of St. David
Your journey of discovery begins with your arrival in Cardiff, the capital of Wales and scene of one of the largest waterfront developments in Europe. The National Museum of Wales features an extensive Early Christian Collection that provides evidence of fifth and sixth century exchanges between the Gaulish and British churches, and similar exchanges between Wales and Ireland, demonstrating the multiculturalism of the Principality in the early Christian era. The Collection's sub-Roman inscriptions and bilingual inscriptions in Latin and Irish ogham script are our earliest documents of Christian Wales.
Into the Kingdom of Dyfed [TOP]
From Cardiff we travel westwards along the South Wales coast, passing through the Vale of Glamorgan, one of the great centres of early Christian activity in Wales. The most famous of many seats of learning was the Monastery of St. Illtud at Llanilltud Fawr, which numbered St. Samson and the sixth-century scholar Gildas amongst its alumni. St. Samson was eventually to be ordained bishop of Dol in Brittany, but not before, in common with St. David and other monks, he was called to a more remote and austere existence in the west of Wales. St. Govan's Chapel, set in a bleak niche at the foot of Pembrokeshire sea cliffs, is the most spectacular and romantically-sited of the hermitages remaining in Wales. Caldey Island, off the South Pembrokeshire coast, is described as the retreat of St. Samson in the Life of St. Samson of Dol and is today home to a Catholic Cistercian community of the strict observance. Carmarthen was a civitas, or major town, of Roman Britain. The Carmarthen Museum occupies the former Bishop's Palace and the collection holds a number of early Christian monuments, most notably the Votipor(ix) stone, thought to commemorate a ruler of the ancient Kingdom of Dyfed who was chastised by Gildas in his Ruin of Britain.
Dewisland [TOP]
The Kingdom of Dyfed covered the south-western corner of the modern Principality and was the scene of intensive activity by David and other early Christian saints. We travel to one of the most beautiful churches of Wales, at Nevern, site of an early monastery founded by St. Brynach, who was visited by angels at nearby Carn Ingli. Our tour now focuses on Dewisland - David's Land - and takes in sites with strong traditional associations. Porth Mawr - Whitesand Bay - is thought to have been the site of a primitive monastic settlement and was St. Patrick's point of departure for his mission to Ireland. A journey around the spectacular coast of the St. David's Peninsula includes a visit to the chapel at St. Non's, commemorating David's mother and the legend of his birth. Another chapel, on the impressive headland of St. Justinian's, marked the crossing point to the island retreat of Ramsey Island. Finally we visit the magnificent medieval St. David's Cathedral in the secluded valley of Vallis Rosina, site of the extreme ascetic community founded by the Patron Saint. Our tour includes an inspiring celebration of Choral Evensong amongst the soaring columns and high vaultings of the national shrine.
To the Heart of Wales [TOP]
Travelling northwards along the West Wales coast, we strike inland to the famous falls of Cenarth on the River Teifi, described by Gerald of Wales. Here a small museum is dedicated to coracles and hide boats (the favoured craft of the Celtic saints) from around the world. We move on to Llanddewi Brefi, David's most notable church after his Cathedral, where the saint is said to have presided over a synod of bishops assembled to combat the Pelagian heresy. Our journey continues along the beautiful Teifi Valley towards the source of the river in the dramatic highlands of Plynlimon. Strata Florida was a major monastic house of the high Middle Age Cistercians in Wales. There are surviving encaustic tiles, and the grave of the medieval Welsh poet Dafydd ap Gwilym lies nearby. Returning towards the coast we visit the monastic and literary centre of Llanbadarn Fawr, home of Rhigyfarch, the most important chronicler of the life of St. David, and close to the Victorian coastal resort of Aberystwyth.
Mountains and Druids [TOP]
From Aberystwyth we travel towards the imposing mountain scenery of Snowdonia, via the 'unimproved' medieval church at Llandanwg, nestling amongst the sand dunes. We pass the spectacular Norman castle at Harlech en route to the harbour town of Porthmadog and thence to Betws-y-Coed, the main centre for visitors to Snowdonia. Only a few miles away, but surprisingly remote, is the tiny village of Penmachno, with its unusually lengthy inscriptions that conjure up an early Christian landscape where the graves of Christian ancestors marked the continuity of tradition. From Penmachno we climb through mountain passes to the Menai Straits and the crossing to Anglesey - Ynys Mon - the pre-Roman intellectual centre of Druidic Britain. Before departing for Ireland we visit two small churches, both in scenic settings: Penmon and Capel Lligwy. Our journey now takes us across the Irish Sea to Dublin, capital of the Republic and one of the most vibrant small cities in Europe.
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